Saturday, April 3, 2010

the stars of spring

One of the things I love about the Crescent City Farmers Market is their varied locations--and even more, that one of those locations, the Thursday evening market, is a short walk from our house. This past Thursday, we sauntered out with dozens of people from the neighborhood who were taking advantage of the brief period in New Orleans when days are sunny and bright, but not hot. For a month or so, the weather will be the star here, with sweet Louisiana produce running a close second.

We sampled some great gazpacho, tabbouleh, and salsa, and took home hand-made black bean and corn tamales, cilantro hummus, cajun-spiced goat cheese, Gulf shrimp, shiitake ciabatta bread, and rich, red, plump, freshly picked strawberries. At left is a strawberry bruschetta we made as part of our farmers market dinner: sliced ciabatta, spicy goat cheese, and thickly sliced strawberries--an unorthodox combination of sassy local offerings.






























Above: busy market stalls; fresh vegetables; locally made goat cheese; handmade tamales and sauces.

Pictured below is another simple way I like to enjoy these succulent fruits: strawberry caprese. Several years ago, my friend Brooke served me a caprese salad, which is traditionally made of sliced tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, and basil, made with peaches instead of tomatoes. It was an enlightening moment for me, and really made me think about why the caprese works in the first place. It's a simple combination, seasoned lightly with salt, pepper, a drizzle of balsamic vinegar and/or olive oil, as you prefer; yet its success rests on the interplay of peppery basil, mild, cooling cheese, and the tart sweetness of late-summer tomatoes. So before those tomatoes are at their best, but you still want the fresh caprese experience? Use whatever fruit is bursting with color and excitement, and serve it either as an appetizer or a welcoming dessert.



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Thursday, April 1, 2010

where y'everything: a list of places to eat and more in new orleans

We're offering this list of eateries--plus a few bars, attractions, and oddities--for our guests and guests unknown to get ideas about where to spend their time and money. Only places we have visited and actually recommend are on the list. If you'd like to suggest places that aren't here yet, feel free to leave a comment, and we'll add it to the list if we agree. Happy exploring...

French Quarter
Eats
  • Central Grocery (home of the muffaletta; mostly takeaway)
  • Coop's Place (best restaurant jambalaya, hands down)
  • Felix's (great oysters, turtle soup, sweet potato fries)
  • Antoine's (high-priced, long-established classic French; recommended if you can budget it)
  • Mother's (breakfast all day, plus outstanding ham po-boys; also all the New Orleans cuisine you want: red beans & rice, gumbo, spaghetti, fried chicken, etc.)
  • Port of Call (great big steak-like burgers, steaks, baked potatoes (no french fries here), big sweet drinks; there's usually a line out the door, but it's worth it; vegetarians beware)
Drinks
Lodging
  • We highly recommend the Hotel Villa Convento (rumored to be the original "House of the Rising Sun").
Around Bayou St. John
Eats
  • Liuzza's by the Track (po-boys, fried seafood, gumbo)
  • Parkway Bakery & Tavern (extensive po-boy menu, roast beef to die for)
  • Mandina's (traditional New Orleans offerings with an Italian-American attitude)
  • Angelo Brocato's Ice Cream (canolli, spumoni, gelato)
  • K-Jean's Seafood (seafood vendor; no tables, but you can get po-boys to go or shrimp boiled to order, or choose a whole fish & they'll fillet it for you and give you the bones for your stock)
  • Nonna Mia (pizza, sandwiches, some pastas; Sunday brunch; quality, tasty ingredients; delivery)
  • Cafe Degas (French bistro; brunch; beautiful, sunny but sheltered setting on the boulevard)
Other
  • New Orleans Museum of Art (sculpture garden too)
  • Fortier Park (a nice outdoor game of chess)
  • Fair Grounds race track (horseracing and some decent snacks; check out the gumbo with crab claws)
  • City Park (I recommend the train and the ladybug rollercoaster, but you could also rent a paddle boat or get some exercise or all sorts of other parkly activities)
  • Pal's Lounge (an apres-activity beer spot; you'll often find some gratis red beans and rice here on Mondays, plus "roll-a-day" for a $1-chance at the jackpot)
CBD (Central Business District)
  • St. Charles Bar (gumbo & red beans/rice next door)
  • Luke (business-suit spot; also serves breakfast)
  • August (fine dining; extremely delicious; prix-fixe lunch--3 courses for $20)

Warehouse District
  • Cochon (inspired Cajun cuisine; specializes in pork, of course)
  • Cochon Butcher (Cochon's neighbor--a true butcher shop, but one with a full bar and fantastic $6 tapas, along with a full sandwich menu)
  • Mulate's (family-oriented, fried seafood and cajun classics with a large, bright dance floor and experienced cajun band)

Marigny
Eats
  • Adolpho's (Italian; upstairs above the Apple Barrel bar; hidden & romantic)
  • Mimi's (bar with dancing upstairs, but the late-night tapas is the best part of the place)
  • 13 (hipster cafe/bar open early to late; breakfast, pizza, sandwiches, several tofu options)
  • Snug Harbor (classic jazz bistro; seats late on Fri/Sat)
Other
  • Spotted Cat (mostly jazz, but some other offerings)
  • DBA (mostly jazz; go watch the Sunday evening swing dancers)
  • Apple Barrel (blues, songwriter, jazz, etc.)

Riverbend (where the St. Charles streetcar turns onto Carrollton Ave.)
Eats
  • Camellia Grill (classic 24-seat marble-countered grill; no alcohol; weekend brunch line is out the door but worth it for the potato/onion omelet)
  • Mat & Naddie's (newly wrought Louisiana)
  • Dante's Kitchen (nice patio, brunch)
  • Babylon Cafe (go for the good selection of eggplant and bean dips and the award-winning homemade bread)
  • Jamila's (bellydancer on Saturday nights; great mussels)
  • Fresco Cafe (patio; pizzas, sandwiches, salads, drink specials; neighborhood delivery)
  • Cooter Brown's (sports bar; burgers, po-boys, fried seafood, raw oysters; get there early if it's football season)
  • Boucherie ("Contemporary Southern Cuisine"; try anything they do with grits)
  • Jacques-Imo's (try the alligator cheesecake appetizer)
  • College Inn (a nola institution, famous "peacemaker" oyster po-boy)
Other
  • Maple Leaf Bar (music; poetry reading on Sunday afternoons)
  • Maple Street Books (cozy, well-stocked spot; children's bookstore next door)
  • The Levy (walk or jog or take your dog)

Uptown
Eats
  • Patois (great menu; locals' secret)
  • Pascale's Manale (home of New Orleans-style BBQ shrimp)
  • Audubon Clubhouse (breakfast, brunch, or lunch spot in the middle of Audubon Park; the food is simple, but you can't beat the view)
  • Franky & Johnny's (boiled crawfish; boudin balls; fried seafood)
Other

Magazine Street
Eats
  • Casamento's (seafood, raw oysters; closed during August)
  • Lilette (trendy bistro; great appetizers)
  • Ignacious Eatery (brunch, eclectic spins on Nola standards; moderately priced)
  • La Petite Grocery (I recommend the handmade spaghetti and anything they serve with it, but the entire menu is well-made)
  • Vicky's Corner Grocery (this "Grocery" really is a corner store, unlike the above; order the freshly fried shrimp po-boy--12" for $5)
  • Byblos (local chain; Middle-Eastern favorites; great sandwiches)
  • The Bulldog (beer garden with burgers and other bar food; dogs welcome)
  • Whole Foods (yes, we do have one, and it's easy to stop by and take out some gumbo or local fish after a day of trolling the Magazine shops)
Other
  • Balcony Bar (they serve bar food here, but we haven't sampled it yet...upstairs has the coolest vibe)
  • The Rendezvous (not to be confused with other Rendezvouses in town, this one is bar-only)
  • Funky Monkey (clothes finds)





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Sunday, March 14, 2010

roast beef to remember

This photo is my gift to you. Fantastic, rich, tender roast beef and gravy over french fries, and it's not even a holiday...it's just another Sunday in the food capitol of my heart. I had to share.

My new Sunday favorite is Parkway Bakery & Tavern, at Bayou St. John. Our friend John Mark turned us onto this place a few weeks ago--our friend who was visiting. We didn't even know the riches that were waiting for us a mere football field away from our front door. Now we can't stop going.

For the photo experience, order "fries with gravy." I know the photo doesn't look like fries with "gravy"--it looks more like your grandmother's roast beef--but that's what they call it, so just believe them.

Parkway is famous for piling this roast beef onto po' boys, and for their metabolism-demolishing "surf-n-turf" po'boy, which is loaded with roast beef and fried shrimp. We haven't braved that combo yet, though we hear it's mighty good.















Two people can split an order of fries and a large po'boy (pictured below) and leave painlessly satisfied, which is something of a miracle. This is our oyster po'boy. The oysters have a light, breezy coating that's punched up with a little spice. These are some of the best fried oysters I've had in New Orleans; you can tell that whoever fries them has confidence enough not to overcook the little treasures, so they're like hot puffs of sea.















There's a coziness to this place that I adore. Old Dixie Beer signs, eye-rest-green paint in the front room, Barq's root beer, extra napkins on the tables. It's heavily windowed, so sunlight fills the space. You can look out and see the bayou, and it's on a lightly travelled street, so parking, though it can be less than ideal, isn't too much of a challenge. I'd bet that 75% of the traffic is Parkway-bound anyway.















The menu is filled with all sorts of po'boy stylings: hot sausage, bbq beef, hamburger, meatballs, alligator sausage, on and on. They offer a "gravy po'boy" for $4.95, which I suspect, if the gravy is the same as they douse on the fries, may be the best bargain in the city. Vegetarians: there's a caprese--the classic Italian antipasto of fresh mozzarella, tomato, and basil--po'boy on the menu. They don't heat it, but apparently it's very fresh and drizzled with a balsamic glaze. I even heard someone order it without bread, so hey, if you're not into po'boys, you can still hang out with your friends who are.

Their original menu hangs on the wall. They note that these items aren't available any longer, but I really wish they were. Whatever happened to the tongue sandwich's popularity? I remember reading about it in 50's children's mysteries.


















And, if you happen to be in town on Monday, March 22, you can stop by Parkway for a taping of Food Wars. They're going head-to-head with Domalise's over shrimp po'boys, and I can't wait.




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Wednesday, February 24, 2010

mexican chocolate & french vanilla: an arranged marriage

I don't make desserts nearly as often as I used to, but when I do, I like to go for what works best. And to honor the romantic side of the melting pot that is New Orleans, I decided to spruce up my old standby of brownie + vanilla ice cream with a little tender loving specialness: instead of just purchasing brownies and ice cream, I would make my own! From scratch! I would use the forlorn ice cream making machine and celebrate the day I acquired it in the best possible way...with vanilla!










I like the way my selection of bowls creates a striking visual irony.



















Hooray for huge blurry photos of dessert!!!

Make your favorite batch of brownies, but add about a 1/2 teaspoon of cinammon. This makes them "Mexican Chocolate Brownies" in the most simply but satisfying way--just a little something different, interesting, titillating. If you don't have a favorite recipe, use the one at the bottom of this post--it's my favorite. Then, buy the fanciest French vanilla ice cream you can afford, or if you want to get real crafty, make your own. Put a warm brownie in the bottom of a bowl, top with vanilla ice cream, and use a real small spoon so you get to enjoy more bites. It's the best stuff ever.

Making ice cream from scratch is a great way to learn patience and tempering (tempering means making something that's cold less cold so it won't cause a reaction that you don't want). You have to move rather slowly while you mix the hot cream into the eggs and then the eggs back into the hot cream; if you go too fast, you'll end up with a version of scrambled eggs that you probably wouldn't serve to an alligator. Then, you have to wait while the ice cream hardens further in the freezer, after you take it out of the machine. But it's all worth it. If you have the means to borrow or procure a machine, I say, do it. Here's my little pal:



















He reminds me of a Macintosh computer circa 1988. I really love him and I promise to take him on more dates. :)

Mexican Chocolate Brownies (adapted from "Mocha-Chip Brownies" in The Brown Bag Lunch by Susan Epstein, a surprisingly wonderful little book)


  • 1 stick butter
  • 2 oz. unsweetened chocolate
  • 3/4 c. sugar
  • 1 t. baking powder
  • 1/4 t. salt
  • 1/4 t. ground cinnamon
  • 1 2/3 c. all-purpose flour
  • 2 eggs
  • 1/2 c. semi-sweet chocolate chips (or white chocolate chips)
  1. Preheat oven to 350.
  2. Melt butter and chocolate together in a small saucepan or in the microwave; let cool slightly.
  3. Combine sugar, baking powder, salt, ground cinnamon, flour, and eggs together in a medium-sized mixing bowl.
  4. Add butter/chocolate mixture and stir to mix well. Stir in chocolate chips.
  5. Spread batter in greased 8"-square baking pan. Bake for about 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in center comes out with just a few fudgy crumbs. Cool on a wire rack.
  6. Cut into 12 mean brownies, 9 happy brownies, or 6 jubilant brownies.

French Vanilla Ice Cream (adapted from The Best Ice-Cream Maker Cookbook Ever by Peggy Fallon)

  • 4 egg yolks
  • 3 cups heavy cream
  • 1 cup milk
  • 1/2 sugar
  • pinch salt (important addition!)
  • 1 Tablespoon vanilla extract
  1. Set egg yolks in a medium bowl to come to room temperature or somewhere near that.
  2. Heat cream, milk, sugar, and salt in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar (about 8 minutes).
  3. Turn off heat while you do this part. Put 1 cup of the hot cream mixture in a measuring cup with a handle and a pouring spout. Slowly pout the hot cream into the eggs in a thin stream while you constantly whisk. If you have someone help you do this part, it'll be more fun. You've just "tempered" the eggs.
  4. Turn the heat back on under the pot of cream to medium. Slowly pour in the eggs, whisking constantly. Now, heat the cream, stirring, until it's 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. To check this, I hold the thermometer so the pointy end is in the middle of the liquid. Don't touch it to the inside bottom of the pot, because that's the hottest part, so it won't give you an accurate reading.
  5. Transfer the mixture to a heatproof bowl to cool at room temperature for about 30 minutes. Stir in the vanilla extract.
  6. If you have a new-fangled ice-cream maker that uses a bowl filled with supercoolant, you can put the cream mixture right in there & start it churning. If you have a maker that uses ice and salt, you'll want to chill the mixture in the fridge for several hours first, to make the freezing process go faster later on. Either way, follow your manufacturer's directions and then pack the ice cream in a freezer-safe container to finish hardening.

Makes about 2 quarts.


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Saturday, February 6, 2010

riz jaune to the riz-scue

Riz jaune has appeared in my life right when I really needed a new "dinner magic" kind of recipe--something cheap, on-hand, and easy to adapt to all sorts of quick dinner fixes. Riz jaune (say "ree zhahn") is basically a Cajun version of fried rice. You make a sort of trinity-plus-Pope concoction (that's onion/celery/bell pepper + garlic), add veggie bits or leftovers you have around the kitchen, ditto with meats (sausage is especially nice), and then you stir in cold cooked rice and eggs. Mix everything up, cook till the egg is firm and scattered all throughout, then eat it as-is or in dozens of other ways that I haven't even thought of yet. Here's what we have had: Riz-jaune-and-red-bean burrito, and gumbo served over riz jaune instead of plain rice. Good stuff. I can also see this being a great stuffing for vegetables or an interesting bed for some gravied chicken or pork.





Riz Jaune (a sort-of recipe)

Heat a little butter or oil in a large nonstick saute pan with high sides. Saute an onion, a few cloves of garlic, a couple of stalks of celery, a bell pepper (all diced small) until soft. Add other vegetables if you see some sitting around: chopped mushrooms, tomato, eggplant, etc.--just don't let the mixture get too wet. If you have some cooked ham, chicken, pork, or shrimp, add it now. If you have some chopped andouille or other smoked sausage, put that in too! When the pan starts to dry out and some browny bits start forming, pour in about 1/4 cup of wine or stock and stir until the pan is dry again. Then add about 1 1/2 cups cold cooked rice (leftover rice is great for this), about 1 teaspoon dried thyme, and other seasonings like salt, pepper, Tabasco, or Creole seasoning blend to taste. After the rice is coated with vegetable juices, stir in 5 or 6 eggs, lightly beaten and seasoned with salt and pepper. Stir over medium-high heat until the eggs have dried out and firmed up and the rice has turned light yellow (that's the "jaune" in jaune). Eat it!

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Friday, July 3, 2009

fat and happy at mat and naddie's

Guess what? I had a really good meal for my first birthday as a New Orleans resident (surprise, surprise). We went to a great little place in our neighborhood, Mat and Naddie's, which our neighbor Mark has been telling us we should visit for months. Mark was right--this place is a gem. I'm so glad it's in our neck of the woods.
















The only cocktail I ever want to drink during a stifling New Orleans summer: the Pimm's Cup. I've been trying these at different locations to find my favorite. Mat and Naddie's was smooth, so I don't think they use ginger ale or 7-Up...maybe lemonade? The cucumbers always make me happy.
















A nice sampling of olives, artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, and fresh mozzarella to nibble. Everything was marinated in olive oil and herbs.

















This photo doesn't do justice to these fantastic oysters, on the menu as "Grilled Oysters with Brie Cream and Shiitake 'Bacon.'" That's right--they make a "bacon" out of sliced shiitake mushrooms, I can only guess, by cooking it low and slow in a skillet until it intensifies its shiitakiness and dries out a little, like a mushroom jerky. Or maybe this happens in the oven. There's also a little garlic and pecorino-romano action going on here.
















My fabulous entree, "Spicy Tempura Fried Gulf Shrimp Tonkatsu." This is one of the most exciting dishes I've had in New Orleans. The shrimp are butterflied and coated in a light tempura batter, and somehow remained outside-crispy and inside-silky the whole time I was loving this dish. I didn't know what Tonkatsu meant, so I asked the waiter if this was a good item to order, and he said it was one of the best things on the menu, which I totally believe. Apparently, Tonkatsu is a Japanese combination of fried pork served with something crunchy, like cabbage, and a sweet-spicy sauce. Mat and Naddie's serves their seafood version with a fresh bok choy slaw, sticky jasmine rice, and a sauce--it's one of the best sauces I've ever tasted--of red chile and a deep, complex sweetness, maybe plum, maybe lemongrass, a small piece of sun for brightness, a drop of dew from the Garden of Eden? I will meet this sauce again.















Paul's "Grilled Filet Mignon with Smoked Marrow Compound Butter." Nice. It looks like Paul was eating in another restaurant because this photo was taken with flash. But he wasn't! He was sitting across the table from me! Thank goodness, because I really wanted to taste this, and he was kind enough to let me. Rosemary steak fries (not too exciting), but (continuing from the menu description) "wilted greens and a Maytag blue cheese and bacon buerre rouge." ?!? Please, sir, I'd like some more. While the potatoes were a little too basic to stand up to the rest of the plate, the rest of the plate was divine: a smart combination of beefy, winey, tart, creamy, burgundy, and leafy.
Sorry to say we couldn't squeeze in a dessert to show you. I would've done it too, because I was so impressed with everything else I ate that night. To all my friends: come visit already, so you can go here too!

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Thursday, July 2, 2009

hot child in the city

Believe me when I tell you that a couple of weeks ago, when I was dead-set on filling out a nice, long post with photos of the Creole Tomato/Louisiana Seafood/Cajun-Zydeco festival throwdown, I had no idea that it would be so hot down in the French Quarter.

It was too hot to take photos. Seriously, the camera kept slipping out of my hands.

I managed a few, though:

I love these little guys. I ate them.

Cajun fish taco. I asked for a small portion of slaw so I could really taste the fish. It's a lightly fried tilapia filet, dusted with just a bit of Cajun seasoning (like a mixture of cayenne, garlic powder, thyme, salt, pepper). Really nice and simple-tasting, a good thing to eat in the heat.

Shrimp-and-crab-stuffed Creole tomato. This was the perfect dish to "marry" the two food festivals together. Creole tomatoes are the jewels of the summer season here in Louisiana--people talk about them all year, either how much they miss them or how much they love them. They don't really look different from regular tomatoes, to me, but the taste is something special. Denser, sunnier, redder. I devoured every last seed of this tomato.

We had some other yummies--crawfish sausage, hurricane sno balls--but they didn't make it to the photo stage. If you can stand the heat, this festival trio, known as the "Vieux To Do," is really something. Tons of food, great vendors, fun music. This year it was held the weekend of June 13-14, so I'd assume next year it will be sometime close to that.


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